By: Dr. Sunbin Song, PhD, Song Lab
Reviewed by: Dr. Gayin Lee, MD, Dermatologist
September 2, 2025
“Natural” does not necessarily mean skin-friendly. Many baby creams tout ingredients like almond oil, oats, or coconut oil. But for babies with sensitive or eczema-prone skin, these food-based ingredients can do more harm than good - triggering irritation or even allergies over time. Parents are rethinking whether “natural” is always the gentlest choice for sensitive skin.
“Skin-native” ingredients are those that are naturally present in the skin’s own structure and function – such as ceramides, glycerin, and provitamin B5 – while “food-natural” ingredients are from edible sources and may contain allergens.
At Song Lab, we believe in a better kind of “natural”: one that mirrors what’s already in the skin. Our formulas are made with skin-native ingredients - like ceramides, glycerin and provitamin B5.
Let’s break down why this matters for your child’s health.
What Are Skin-Native Ingredients?
While natural skincare often leans on food oils like olive or almond, true skin-native ingredients mimic what is already part of your skin.
They include:
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Essential skin vitamins, like Provitamin B5
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Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), like hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA and glycerin
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Skin-identical lipids, like ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and squalane
Skin-native ingredients are some of the most effective and safest ingredients out there. While people often complain that natural products don’t work well, we believe it’s because they are using food-natural skincare, not skin-natural skincare. The research shows skin-native ingredients can even match the efficacy of steroids3.
We created Song Lab to bring this science-backed, skin-first approach to American families.
Ingredient Highlight: 5% Provitamin B5 (Panthenol)
In Korea, parents use 5% Provitamin B5 creams for eczema, diaper rash, and redness. Here in the U.S., parents often reach for hydrocortisone. While hydrocortisone can be effective, even the weakest over-the-counter forms (0.5-1%) can lead to skin thinning if not applied as directed and isn’t recommended for thin baby facial skin nor for long-term usage1, 2.
The good news is that 5% Provitamin B5 can match the power of steroids while being good for long-term skin health in infants and adults:
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Reduces irritation in eczema skin: one study found equal anti-inflammatory efficacy between 5% Provitamin B5 and 1% hydrocortisone in treating childhood eczema after two weeks of usage3
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Protect and repair skin: 5% Provitamin B5 can also protect against detergent-induced irritation4, reduce redness in dry winter skin5, and repair barrier function and hydration after damage6,7
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Safe for babies and infants: Provitamin B5 has been used safely in infants for over 80 years, with multiple studies supporting its tolerability in diaper rash, eczema, irritation, wounds, and barrier repair9-13
How do you know if your product has Provitamin B5? The official name on ingredient lists is “Panthenol.” You will also see Provitamin B5 sprinkled in a lot of products, but the levels are important. At a 1% level, studies show it is very hydrating14, so look for this level in lotions. However, 5% has been shown to be a therapeutic level to support red, inflamed skin. You can find 5% Provitamin B5 in Soothe & Seal Ultra-Rich Cream.
Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs): Hydration That Lasts
Whether you are facing dry winters or dry desert climates, moisture loss is a problem. Baby skin generally loses water more easily, and babies with eczema lose even more water through skin due to a compromised skin barrier.
Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs) are naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin (the stratum corneum). They attract and hold water, maintain skin barrier function and prevent flaking and tightness. NMFs include:
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Hyaluronic Acid: Holds 1000 times its weight in water
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Sodium PCA: Comprises ~12% of your body’s natural moisturizing factors
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Glycerin: Uniquely maintains skin elasticity in dry weather conditions to prevent cracking
Combinations of NMFs are ideal to restore skin hydration and elasticity, particularly in dry winter weather and arid environments.
Clinical studies have shown that emollients containing NMFs such as glycerin, sodium PCA and hyaluronic acid significantly improve skin hydration and barrier function in both infants and adults with dry or eczema-prone skin15-22.
Babies and adults with eczema-prone and dry skin tend to have lower levels of NMFs. Our Soothe & Seal cream contains a powerful blend of the mentioned skin-native NMFs to help protect and hydrate the skin year-round.
Skin-Identical Lipids: Mimicking the Skin’s Natural Barrier
Eczema-prone babies often lack the lipids in their skin that it needs to make the skin barrier waterproof28-30.
The skin barrier has three main types of lipids:
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50% Ceramides
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25% Cholesterol
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15% Free Fatty Acids (FFAs)
Another important lipid is squalane, a stable version of squalene, a lipid naturally produced by the body in sebum that coats skin and supports skin waterproofing.
Multiple studies show that topical application of ceramides, cholesterol, FFAs and squalane can help “plug up leaks,” accelerate skin barrier repair, and increase hydration in the eczema-prone including infants 32-39.
These lipids are also key components of vernix caseosa, the naturally protective white coating present on newborns at birth31. Clinical studies show applying these lipids accelerates barrier repair and boosts hydration. Soothe & Seal Ultra-Rich Cream is packed with all four.
Why We Avoid “Food-Natural” Skincare
Using oat, nut, or seed oils on baby skin may increase food allergy risk.
While more research is ongoing, recent studies suggest that topical exposure to food proteins may increase the risk of sensitization and food allergy, particularly in infants with eczema or barrier dysfunction40-45.
We will cover this further in a future article.
Why Song Lab Products Are Made in the USA
While we’re inspired by Korean skincare, our products are made in the U.S., in FDA-approved, cGMP-certified labs. American families can trust that Song Lab products are:
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Ultra-hypoallergenic – designed without food ingredients or American Contact Dermatitis Society core allergens (2020 series)
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Safety tested, including clinically tested for skin irritation on both normal and sensitive skin, shelf-stability tested and preservative tested
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Developed with our clinical advisory board of dermatologists and allergist
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Made with European Pharmacopoeia-grade occlusives
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In process of applying to be verified by EWG and National Eczema Association
Shop smarter. Choose skin-native.
Note: This article is for informational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any condition. It should not be taken as medical advice. Always consult with a qualified healthcare provider regarding any questions you may have about your or your child’s health.
References:
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3. Udompataikul M, Limpaovart D (2012). “Comparitive trial of 5% dexpanthenol in water-in-oil formulation with 1% hydrocortisone ointment in the treatment of childhood atopic dermatitis: a pilot study.” J Drugs Dermatol 11(3): 355-374.
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